If there is one attraction Madrid is not lacking in, it is most definitely its bountiful variety of breathtaking museums. There is the ever elegant Prado Museum with its romantic, classical paintings and sculptures, the alternative artwork of Reina Sofia surrounding the famed historical “Guernica,” and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum which I have not been lucky enough to set eyes upon quite yet. And let's not forget one of the most-visited museums of the region: Bernabeu Museum - a futból (soccer) museum. While all very popular, and for very good reason, Madrid’s beauty is far from limited to these obvious institutions. One hidden gem for those with enough time to wander off the cliché tourist path is Cerralbo Museum.

Throughout his life, de Cerralbo held public office, distinguishing himself in the Carlist Party; he played an instrumental role in discovering what was at that time the most ancient European human settlement and created numerous regulations and instruments for the improvement of archaeology; and he wrote books of poetry and volumes of archaeology, all the while amassing one of the largest collections of armory, paintings, candles, coins, rugs, tapestries, furniture, marbles watches, lamps, and sculptures, totaling over 28,000 objects. Embracing the 19th Century collectionist passion, this man really liked...stuff.
Cerralbo Museum is located on Calle Ventura Rodríguez, 17, near Plaza de España, and it is open (and free!) from 2:00 until 3:00 on Saturdays, 5:00 until 8:00 on Thursdays, and from 10:00 until 3:00 on Sundays. If these times do not work, the most it will cost you to peek into this wonderful home is €3.00 - and it is time well spent. About two hours should be sufficient time to see it all, provided most of the time is not spent merely gawking at the elaborate glory of it all.

I entered through a pair of unassuming glass doors into a bleak hallway, and up a set of uncertain stairs before finding myself launched back into an elegant era. Encased in marble, a staircase on the right wound up to the next level, surrounded by stone busts, classical paintings and gilded railings, while a shorter staircase to the left led to the start of our journey. The very friendly attendants pointed us down a plain hallway lined with lockers where we dropped off my purse and got our free ticket stubs and a map, before being directed back to where we came from, and beginning our adventure back in time. The first hall we encountered was smothered with those wonderful and dark floor-to-ceiling paintings, and we perused each one casually in turn until reaching a dead-end that peered outside onto the fountain-ed and manicured courtyard. We returned to the mouth of the hall and were directed by the very friendly tour guide into our first real taste of this home.

After winding through a set of lounge-type rooms and peeking into a rather plain bedroom, we shuffled down a narrow hallway covered with more drawings, paintings, and to our left, an enormous, frayed tapestry, before emerging and being directed to the “entrance hall.”
To make it to the entrance hall, you must go back to the entrance way and climb your way up the more elegant, winding marble staircase, surrounded by a line of busts, and guided by an intricate rose-gold and silver railing. And of course more mirrors and chandeliers.

Our return down the hall allowed us to pass a small litter - a carriage hardly big enough for one person, with poles for four people to carry this cramped individual - and a “bathroom.” History lesson for the day - they still did not have toilets here in the early 1900’s. The bathrooms were incredibly small with just enough room to stand between a sink jutting from the wall and a large stone tub.


The large dining hall gave way to the billiards room. The table was interesting, high, with long pool cues and no holes for the balls. Tall, uncomfortable-looking benches lined the walls, where it was said women would watch the men play this game.
From there we entered an absolutely breathtaking sitting area where individuals would relax and pass the time between dancing with gossiping, and likely longing gazes as the intricate detail surrounding them. The room was angelic - literally / with religious murals gracing the ceilings and walls. The thresholds were adorned with marble statues and detail. From here, a collection of small rooms lined the perimeter
The sitting room led way to set of hallways de Cerralbo used as his own museum of art, ceiling to floor. Painting were mounted everywhere - including the ceiling - surrounding sculptures and wooden treasure chests. Thick, grand tables now show several pieces of jewelry, lockets and watches. Side rooms allowed a peak into an office, de Cerralbo would use, inundated with clocks as if Captain Hook was the interior decorator, and a cozy library of ancient books and coins. Above us, whimsically colorful chandeliers hung.

Museo de Cerralbo was a beautifully magical surprise, and it was worth the journey. It is hard to imagine having so much wealth at one's fingertips. The home - one of de Cerralbo's many homes - dripped in detail that danced the line between elegant and obnoxious.
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