Five Fantastic Finds for Foodies!

To be frank, I was probably least excited about the food when coming here. Most would think I am insane for bemoaning the opportunity to try “exotic” Spanish cuisine, and they are probably correct. Those ignorant to the world beyond their city or town assume the food is just like Mexico, and cannot fathom how I could go wrong – I absolutely love Mexican food (or at least that which they call authentic Mexican food in the United States)! Of course, just because they speak the same language, does not at all mean they eat the same food. And Spain cannot handle the spice. Those who are actually capable of locating this country on a map would berate me with the common contention that Spain has one of the best food cultures in the world, and I am missing out. The latter is true. If anyone knows anything about Spain, they know of its varied tapas, its colorful paellas, its intoxicating Sangria, its savory chorizo, and the crazy, crazy eating schedule they consume these flavors in. Indeed, CNN listed Spain as number four in its top ten countries with the best food (following Italy, China, and France), and Huffington Post hailed the cuisine as the reason Spaniards are “winning at life.” This flattering stereotype in mind, I had initially been quite excited to try the food when I first paid a visit. I quickly learned then that my palate was not up to speed for this cultured cuisine, and I lamented the absence of everything I love about eating.

Here’s the rub. While Spain may, in fact have some of the best food in the world, it is food I have, until now, been completely unfamiliar with in every way. Growing up in a small town, in the middle of the country, on a farm, I had become quite fond of the meat-and-potato, comfort style foods. More to the point, my mother hated seafood, and so there was never any in the house. No salmon, no cod, no shrimp, not even a fish stick. I, of my own devise, had a surface level appreciation for certain shellfish, but unfortunately upon my first voyage to Spain, I clashed tragically with its Mediterranean cuisines. I will never recover from the gamba (shrimp) eating lesson my host mother had with me, insisting that sucking juices out of the creature’s head after I had ripped it off its body was the best part. I politely refused. I have taken it upon myself in recent years to understand what people like so much about sea animals, and fortunately, my tastes have improved. However, knowing the degree to which I may be faced with seafood in my new home, I was not exactly thrilled.

Further exasperating my protein dilemma was the famous jamón this country eats as if it were going out of style. This translation of jamón in English is “ham,” but I refuse to allude to some connection between the honey-baked hams I have been raised on and the cured leg of meat Spaniards bathe in salt and then hang from the ceilings for years before consuming. The former is juicy, savory, salty, and tender; the latter is tough, dry, and often tastes like wet dog. And it is not just the jamón, but also what they have unfortunately defined here as bacon. It is not bacon but just thick slices of cured meat, and they are absolutely missing out.

It probably is not fair for me to be so harsh when it comes to this praised, Spanish delicacy, especially considering the combination of my lack of exposure to it and the fact that most of the jamón I have tried is likely not the praised treat but rather a “knock-off” version. Spain is the largest consumer of ham, producing 40 million hams each year. However, of these millions, only 5% of it makes up the celebrated jamón de bellota – jamón produced in the Extremadura region where the pigs subsist, under strict regulations, almost entirely on acorns (bellota) and are distinguished by the black hooves they bear. I therefore doubt that the jamón sitting on dried out café sandwiches is jamón de bellota. This, in combination with the fact that until 2005, such jamón was not allowed into the US, and even now still suffers strict FDA regulations, has jaded and limited my ability to really appreciate the aromatics of the meat. I have been fortunate enough to try the costly, authentic version on this trip, and while I will not be going out and buying my own, 15 pound $1,300 leg anytime soon, I highly recommend you seek out a taste when you come to visit. It is their caviar, and it is a part of embracing Spanish culture.

My four years away from Spain’s unique and celebrated cuisine has allowed me a substantial degree of maturity, and preparation for the flavors that lay ahead. Learning more about the foods along the way has helped me better understand and appreciate the taste. I have also discovered that, perhaps distinct from my extensive time in Toledo, Madrid provides a wealth of variety when it comes to dining options. I had expected it to take several months to track down five restaurants I would highly recommend. I was wrong, so very, very wrong. It has only been three months, and I can easily name 5 places I would not miss if I came back to Madrid for the weekend.  

#1 - Subiendo al Sur

Calle de Ponciano, 5, 28015
Madrid, Community of Madrid

Jonny surprised me with reservations to this lovely gem early on in our adventures, when I was feeling particularly low. It was exactly what I needed. This farm-to-table, South American-esque restaurant is located near Plaza de España on a desolate side-street. I was hesitant at first, noting that the place was completely vacant when we arrived. We learned the hard lesson on our honeymoon not to venture into empty restaurants as novice customers. However, the reviews were good, and it was quite early to be eating dinner on a Friday night anyways– at 9:30p.m.

The restaurant was one of the more beautiful and bigger establishments we have been to so far. The tables were adorned with a bottle of organic wine, a candle, and little paper signs, each with a different welcome saying. Our handsome Cuban server, while unable to speak much English, was very helpful and patient with us as we navigated the menu. When he realized Jonny spoke absolutely no Spanish, he had them translate a menu and reprint it on the spot for us. We asked to have wine, and he offered us the one already on our table. We were a little wary to just simply have what was sitting before us, unsure of how long it had been there or what it might cost, but there did not seem to be a drink menu and he sold it well. We were not disappointed. It was an organic tempranillo from Spain’s wine country - rioja, and it was absolutely delicious. It had a thick, jammy taste inundated with a semi-sweet, red berry flavor.  And of course, let’s not forget that this place serves tapas with its drinks! Held within a crumbly tartlet came an amazing hummus with olive oil, which I quickly inhaled.

If the ambiance, alcohol, and appetizer had not sealed the deal, the main dishes would have overcome every disappointment we could find. On our first trip here, Jonny ordered the “teabag chicken curry” and I, a little less adventurous than him, ordered vegetable lasagna. Both were incredible. My lasagna was everything you would expect, and more. The red sauce was so flavorful, I may have licked the plate clean if I was alone. It carried a strong, creamy tomato essence, with huge slices of carrots appearing throughout. As a side note, carrots in Spain are mysteriously more fantastically delicious than in the United States. Jonny’s chicken curry was served in a wanton-type wrapping (shaped like tea bags) with a side salad of vibrant and flavorful vegetables, including radishes, carrots, and olives. The curry flavor was not particularly strong, but it was there. It was so good I, as usual, regretted not simply ordering the same thing. However, my lasagna made me happy enough.

After such a fantastic meal and such excellent service, we could not pass up the chance to try a dessert. And so we opted for what they called toasted coconut milk with honey drizzle. It turned about to be a delicious custard we were sad to see go, and as we asked for the cuenta, we washed it all down with our complimentary digestif – a shot of rum. Stuffed and buzzed, we stumbled out of Subiendo forgetting the worries of the past few weeks and promising ourselves we would return – which we did. 

"Tea-bag" Chicken Curry, Vegetable Lasagna - Subiendo al Sur

Subiendo al Sur tops my list for several reasons. Not only is the atmosphere ripe for relaxation and romance, with paintings by local artists lining the walls and calming music filling the candle-lit air, but the service is absolutely wonderful. One thing that is hard to come by in many restaurants here is a server that will take the time to get to know you, focus on presentation, and be nice enough to print a menu in English, most likely because unlike in the United States, these servers are not relying on tips to survive. The first time we paid a visit, our server passed the time introducing himself and talking in detail about the foods. The second time, when we passed on dessert, they brought us one anyways, on the house. Moreover, the prices are more than fair, though this seems common in this city. Our meals cost approximately €10.00 each, and our dessert a little less than that. Notably, our wine was a little pricey - about €15.00. However, when you consider all of the “free-bee” add-ons such as the tapas and after-dinner shots, it is a true bargain. It is impossible to recommend a specific dish because the menu is constantly rotating (hence, farm-to-table), but everything we have tried so far has been executed with a sense of pride, and it is all delicious. The lomo saltado (Peruvian Style), the Chicken Curry, and the Vegetable Lasagna are all guaranteed trips to heaven. If you have the money, and the room in your stomach, try them all as they become available. I worry, with how few people seem to go, at least when we are there, that this place will not endure, and that would be a true tragedy.

#2 - Momo

Calle de la libertad, 8
28004, Madrid (Chueca)

If Jonny was writing this post, I am fairly confident Momo’s would be his number one, instead of its humble place on my ranking at number two. And if Subiendo had not yet been found, it would be number one for me as well. Momo’s is located in the Chueca area, on a narrow street, hidden behind unassuming windows covered by its paper menu. There is little room to wait at the entrance, and if you come a little later in the lunch period, you are bound to do some cramped standing around. There is a small bar at the door with three stools, and we snagged a seat and two “café con leche” coffees quickly after finding out it would be a thirty minute wait. The restaurant is very similar to its typical Spanish competitors: a long, narrow room, walls in need of washing, and tables lining both sides, crammed with people. Though plain, but for an abstract painting on the far wall and mirrors down the isle, the place carried an artsy vibe. We were excited to try any of the beautifully presented dishes that emerged from behind the kitchen door, and we were thrilled to find out it was all worth the wait.

Jonny and I both opted for the €11.50 menu del día – a three course meal with a drink of choice (My Spanish friends have explained to me, that while the restaurant calls them “del días,” the customers call them the “menú“ and the menu is “la carta” – don’t get it twisted!). For Jonny’s menú, he chose a creamed tomato soup to start, followed by salmon ceviche dish. The tomato soup is served cold, and had a surprisingly strong, but not very bitter, tomato flavor. It was very fresh with a wonderfully smooth texture, topped with a mild crumbled cheese that complemented the soup’s flavors well. The salmon ceviche was accompanied with mangos, mandarins, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro. It was exactly as ceviche should be - light, fresh, and balanced with a great citrus flavor. The mango could have been more ripe, but it worked well in conjunction with the other ingredients. 

I chose the vegetable vermicelli as my starter, pork loin for my main dish. As usual in Spain, the pork was a little overdone for my taste and was therefore a bit dry, but the sauce, savory and a little acidic, was incredible and I could forgive this minor fault. The vermicelli was absolutely delicious, with strong briny flavors and vegetables embedded in a tangle of translucent noodles. 

For our third course – the dessert, we ordered a pineapple rum smoothie. The only bad thing we could say about this was that we wanted more! It meant little to our minds and mouths that our stomach was starting to cry for mercy. For less than €12 euros each, we left gorged, content, ready for a good long Spanish siesta. If we convince Jonny’s parents to pay us a visit, we will be sure to drag them here.

Momo may look like the many hole-in-the wall restaurants you pass to get there, but it is one of my top five for a few reasons. First, we were enticed by the reasonable prices that accompanied the raves online. There are, in general, even cheaper Menú options in the area, but this is the lowest-priced one we have tried, and we just don’t know how they manage it. No hidden taxes, no need to tip. Just €11.50 and you are given a feast fit for a jolly, fat king. Additionally, the service, while understandably hurried considering the sea of diners knocking down the doors, was nice and attentive to our needs. They worked quickly to rearrange tables as they left, provide the food efficiently, and make room for incoming guests, all with a calm and service-oriented demeanor. The look of the place is very unassuming, and if we did not come here on purpose, we may have passed it up. That would have been a loss for us.

#3 - Cornucopia 

Calle Navas de Tolosa, 9
28013, Madrid

When I think about our time at Cornucopia, a more upscale restaurant located near Plaza de Ópera, I worry that the nostalgia of the evening may have clouded my vision and the food was not as thrilling as I now recall. It was, after all, our one year anniversary, and after a day of massages and exploration throughout the city, I was a giddy, relaxed fool, ready to fall in love with anything that showed an effort. While I may have been vulnerable, even on clear-minded reflection, Cornucopia was one of the best restaurants I have visited in my time here so far.

As I noted, it was our one year anniversary, and to our dismay, Sunday in Madrid slightly limits your options for where to eat. We assumed we would hop into Subiendo al Sur, and realized too late that it was not open on Sundays. Neither was Botín, the (arguably) oldest restaurant in the city. So we did some research and settled for this eatery after perusing their menú and making reservations. We told them it was our anniversary, and they were kind enough to make us feel special and cared for, though it seems we were not that unique in this regard. Every table near us seemed well taken care of and contentedly animated. Similar to Subiendo al Sur, the walls here were covered in local artists’ paintings. The tables were set with gourdes, reminding us where we were – Cornucopia! They lit a candle at our table, and after supplying us with an iced bottle of cava (sparkling wine native to Spain), we were on our way to a beautiful, blurry evening.

We opted for the winter menú, which came to around €22.00 each, this time not including any beverage or dessert. This made it a little pricey, and for budget-conscious stipend-dependent individuals as ourselves, this is what knocked its ranking down to number three. Knowing the quality of food you can find at other places for half this costs, made it hard to fall head over heels. However, if price is no factor whatsoever, this place is a must. For that €22.00, we received an appetizer and a main dish. I ordered wild mushroom croquetas to start, and a deconstructed hamburger as my main dish. Jonny ordered grilled asparagus and a tuna steak.

If you love mushrooms, you will enjoy the croquetas. This is the first time I had them in a variant other than jamón, and the earthy flavor dominated every bite. They came served on a bed of fresh, bitter greens, which created a perfect balance to this heavy treat. Jonny’s asparagus came topped with a bruleed slice of Manchego and a balsamic reduction drizzled on top. As usual, I envied Jonny’s consistently more apt food selections. It was a pleasant, mouthwatering treat, only to be out-shined by the main dish that followed.

I opted for the deconstructed hamburger, consisting of a perfectly cooked, hearty beef patty atop a wheat cracker, with a side garnish of lettuce, red onion, tomatoes, and ample ketchup (I think mostly for the presentation), and a serving of cheesy potatoes gratin. The ketchup was a little much, but the dish was otherwise perfect. Jonny, of course, continued to out-do me, indulging on the most delicious looking tuna I had ever seen. It was a massive tuna stake, cooked rare with a ruby red center, carried a wonderful seared-grill flavor, with a subtle hint of ginger and sesame oil. The acidic blood-orange and grapefruit slices complemented the ginger flavor well and the astringency helped to cleanse the palate so as to fully appreciate each bite of the fatty tuna. The couscous side was a little dry, but overall acceptable, and the currants throughout it added an exciting pop of flavor.

We rounded off our romantic evening with an incredible dessert – banana panna cotta sprinkled with dark chocolate chips and drizzled with a coffee reduction. The panna cotta was perfectly creamy with a slightly spongy texture, and a hint of banana essence throughout. The chocolate and coffee added a bitterness to balance out the sweetness, sending us off into a sugary bliss. It is hard to write without getting up right now, and paying a visit to Cornucopia all over again.

#4 Malaspina

Calle de Cádiz, 9 

28012 Madrid

Malaspina appears on many tourist sites, and for good reason. Jonny and I came here after reading the reviews on Trip Advisor to find it completely packed. The weather was nice enough, so we took one of the few tables they had outside its doors, under the heaters. The bar is located on a busy side street, just off of Puerta del Sol, surrounded by an array of other bars, though all less inhabited. We worried hungrily as we took our seats, whether we would be able to eat anytime soon, given the wall of people clamoring about the bar inside. No worries, a server greeted us almost instantly, and followed our (cheap) wine orders with a serving of complimentary tapas – the best, apart from Subiendo’s, I have had yet. It was slices of chorizo and fried, cubed potatoes swimming in the savory juices. After we placed our order – ½ roasted chicken and, of course, croquetas – he brought us a basket of bread, and we dined merrily on our tapas until our lunch arrived.

It seems to be a consistent risk in Spain that when you order chicken or pork, it is likely going to be dry, and ultimately flavorless. Malaspina, however, has figured it out. Our chicken came out beautifully, full of juicy, briny flavor, complemented with the typical unsalted fries that seem to find their way on a majority of Spanish dishes. We savored every morsel of the bird that had been cooked to perfection. Jonny did not care as much for the croquetas, but I found them to be distinctly delicious. The filling was sprinkled with jamón, as usual, but the creamy cheese carried with it a hint of sweetness that seemed to lighten up the inherently heavy flavor the nuggets tend to develop.

Full to the brim, we asked for the cuenta, and it came with a digestif. This time it was some form of green, anise liqueur, and because of Jonny’s disdain for the stuff, I got both! I discovered then that the city and its rather aggressive residents are insanely more tolerable when enduring them on a buzz, and I wondered if Anthony Bourdain would agree.

I have only good things to say about Malaspina. The service was prompt and friendly, the food was perfection, and best of all, we left full of wine, a shot of liqueur, roast chicken, croquetas, bread, chorizo and fried potatoes for a grand total of about €11.00! It was delicious, it was perfect, and it made for an enjoyable afternoon, even after we departed.

#5 - Lateral

Calle Arturo Soria
Centro Comercial Arturo Soria Plaza
28043, Madrid

Unlike the last four restaurants mentioned, Lateral is a chain, with 7 establishments dispersed throughout the city. Nothing wrong with that – they are highly successful at what they do, so why not spread the love. The reviews online were somewhat mixed, but the place had been recommended to us by various locals, so we decided to try it. We arrived at around 10:00 in the evening – prime dinner time – and it was packed and chaotic. We put our name on a list and sat outside to people-watch while we waited. After a short wait, we were ushered inside by a friendly host to a table right up against server POS station. Not ideal, I felt the need to shift out of the way as they reached for silverware and typed in orders. However, it wasn't terrible since that meant there was always someone around to take our order. If that was not the case, we may have needed to figure out how to use the call button on the table to order our rounds of food.

The theme of this restaurant was different – the closest to an all-out tapas bar we had encountered. It was lively and loud with a mix of patrons, and its bar was an inspiring display, with the glasses stacked in green and blue back-lit shelving to the high ceiling.

We started our food journey with a “jarra” of Sangria. Every time we order a jarra, no matter where we are, the server pauses to clarify that we know what we are talking about, gesturing a massive size with his hands. And every time I want to say yes, we are the giant Americans, indulging on the cheap alcoholic drinks you have in this country, and yes, we want the big pitcher of your summery wine drink, in January. They never argue for too long, though they always leave a little concerned. In most places, any drink, particularly such a large drink, will be served with tapas – little side snacks ranging in their degree of exquisiteness from a cold piece of tortilla española on a slice of bread, to a flaky, warm empanadilla drizzled with a balsamic glaze. Here, given the theme of the place, there were no free handouts, no free tapas. And so, drink in hand, we chose our first treats.

If you had not yet noticed, I have developed a love affair with croquetas, and so, bypassing the many seafood-based dishes, I went for the basic, run-of-the-mill, cheese-filled, fried pieces of delight. If I was not enamored before, these ones sealed the deal. They were also probably the first time I had ones that were made in house from scratch, not just thrown into a deep-fryer.

Jonny went for his favorite sea creature, the scallop, lightly seared in oil and served over a spread of potato purée. They were slightly smaller than expected, but fair for the price. They had a fantastically buttery flavor, and the purée had an exceptionally smooth texture. He was happy, but needed more to eat.

To finish our evening on a high note, we decided to try the "Brie fundido con jamón Iberico." It was in this moment I became a convert. The Brie was addictingly salty and pungent with a smooth, semi-chewy texture. It carried the extra chewy, higher quality jamón's salty, umami flavor well, all atop delicious Spanish bread. In all,it was a great night, a little expensive, but worth every euro-cent.

In sum, we have had some fantastic meals at several establishments. It is hard to expand our horizons having found such great options already. However, we are also excited to see what the over 7,000 options in this large city have to offer.

Let us know what your favorite restaurants are, and why. We would love to hear some great options to make the most of our remaining months here!