So You Want to be an Expat: Quick Tips for a Long Flight

I think it is safe to assume that most people do not enjoy plane rides. Some may not mind them, others tolerate them, a few dread them, and others are too terrified of the prospect to even board a plane, no matter what adventure is in store for them on the other end. I tolerate them, my experience being mostly flights over three hours in length. A trip to Spain from the Midwest will cost you about 8 hours in the air, and most likely one connecting flight along the way.

When my husband and I flew to Spain for our honeymoon, the entire course of our trip suffered the consequences of a poorly executed travel plan, with my husband enduring its worst aspects. After our flight had been delayed, and consequently our connecting flight redirected, we wound up running through the Philadelphia airport and grabbing the closest and easiest thing to eat while we stood waiting for the ground transportation to carry us to the correct terminal. We knew the food on the plane would be less than desirable and that the long flight would be too much to handle on an empty stomach. And so we gorged our silly faces with two different slices of Sabaro Pizza, and promptly thirty minutes after take-off Jonny became tragically acquainted with the airplane bathroom. Food Poisoning. He was in such a miserable state, the flight attendants were kind enough to provide him his own personal seat in back and call the paramedics upon landing. I never expected that the first time I would hear a stranger referring to Jonny as my husband that it would be a flight attendant waking me and informing me of his unfortunate demise.

And so we were derailed, grounded because he was too ill to fly, forced to spend a portion of our money on a hotel in London (not cheap), and compelled to arrive in Madrid the next day instead – on New Years Eve. News flash, the country closes on New Years Eve, and so our first romantic night consisted of rationing macaroons we had and the bottle of wine a bar tender offered to Jonny after he literally begged them for some bread. The next day, the stores were closed, but we lucked out, finding a nice restaurant to celebrate our survival. When the week came to an end, and we were able to reflect on the more enjoyable components of the trip, we thought we were in the clear. Wrong again – the “Great Freeze” of January 2014 descended upon the United States, and while we made it back to the country, we were again forced to stay in a hotel (cursed state), this time without any of our checked luggage or clean clothes. I am not ashamed to admit that I would have been the perfect image for front-page freezocalypse news as I sat at the airport, tearful and at my wit’s end on the phone, crying to my mommy that I just want to go home. It goes without saying, we had a memorable start to our adventures in matrimonial bliss.  

As exciting and rewarding as careless wanderlust can be, such is not the case when it comes to traveling long distances by plane. We learned this lesson the hard way, and as a consequence, this time we tried to pack as if the plane might inadvertently land us on a desert island…or back in Pittsburgh in the middle of snowmageddon. We did not want any disaster to go unplanned for, for fear it would set the tone for our 8 months of isolation in a foreign country. 

It could have been that we took a different route, that we traveled on a different airline, that it was fall and there was little chance of a freeze or snowstorm derailing us, that the fates finally showed us mercy, or that we were actually prepared to suffer any disaster we faced. Whatever it was, we survived our 8 hour flight, and the connection, without incident, landing safe and sound in Madrid and on our way. The disaster of a honeymoon and our trepidation of any repeats have inspired me to share a little advice to those who plan on flying across any Oceans, any time soon.

Pack your carry-on wisely.

Once you hand over your monster of checked luggage, jam-packed with all the conveniences you care to enjoy at your destination, your only companion is your carry-on and what you have wisely chosen to fill it with. For an eight-hour trek, you want to be sure you are prepared for the extended amounts of sitting and disrupted sleeping, and the only way to do that is to fill your life support – your carry-on – with everything that will make that possible. Moreover, if you end up stranded somewhere overnight, and you have the unfortunate luck of traveling with an airline that refuses to give your bags upon such flight cancellation (*cough* American Airlines), you will regret it immensely, and uncomfortably if you do not carefully pack your carry-on essentials.

Bring a neck pillow, bring a blanket.

On most flights, when you arrive at your seat, you are greeted by a limp, 2x3” pillow and a cellophane-wrapped, thin baby-size blanket saying “tuck in, this is going to be a looooong eight hours!” Until this current trip, I have gotten by with these modest offerings. While I take the time in between flights to make fun of people carrying one of the many styles of neck pillows now available, I secretly envy them once we leave the ground. No matter how many ways I manage to jumble my complimentary pillow, it does not support my neck. If I manage to fall asleep (more akin to a groggy twilight state), I wake up with a migraine and an incredibly stiff neck and back.

There are a variety of neck pillows – and neck pillow reviews - out there these days, and if you plan on traveling a lot, I recommend you delve in, read the reviews, test out a few different "models," and choose what will work best for you. Anything would have been better than the alternative in my eyes, so we went for the standard version, choosing Sleepmax MicroBead Ultra Soft Travel Neck Pillow. They got the job done, but there are definitely better options out there.

While it may not be necessary for a short (and thus mostly lower altitude) flight, I strongly recommend a blanket small enough to fit into your carry-on, but large enough to cover your legs. Every time I have traveled to Europe, I am reminded how cold it gets as I try to curl under the small thin “blanket” they provide to passengers. And every time I wish I had brought one of the many fleece blankets I have, sitting uselessly at home. Don’t be me. Bring a Blanket.

Bring sustainable food

It should be obvious, given our past misadventure, that we wanted to bypass any food offerings at these airports. This is, considering the amount of time you will be in an airport/isolated from safer foods, difficult to do, but not impossible. It seems pretty common for people to bring snacks with them when they fly, though usually what I see are people munching on candy-bars and chips. If you are going to last over 14 hours (getting through security, flying, layovers, more flying) without succumbing to the greasy, filling, temptations around you, you need to plan better when it comes to food. Jonny and I thought long and hard about this phase of the trip, culminating in two different trail mixes – one sweet, one salty. Both were filled with proteins and healthy fats to keep us satisfied and clear-minded throughout.

Our sweet mix included: Pecans, macadamia nuts, dark chocolate chips, a variety dried fruits (golden raisins, apricots, pineapple, dried cranberries), Werther's hard candy, and mini marshmallows.

Our Savory mix included: Walnuts, peanuts, cashews, roasted pumpkin seeds, beef jerky pieces, and white cheddar Cheez-its.

We braved the food served on the plane itself because, while the food we brought was enough to sustain us throughout our journey, we began craving something warm. It, as usual, was not very tasty, but satisfying enough. I think the only thing we would have changed in retrospect is omitting the marshmallows - they just did not hold up very well in combination with everything else. Also, I would have brought along some whole fruits and vegetables - carrots and oranges, for example. 

Also be sure to pack the following in your carry-on

• A toothbrush, toothpaste, shampoo, and soap

These above necessities will be a life-saver if you find your self in an extended layover, or stranded in a random city during a snowstorm, exploding volcano, great freeze, etc. When your journey needs to take an intermission, there is nothing worse than having to board a long flight feeling grimy. We brought a mini bottle of Dr. Bronner's Pure Castile Soap and travel size toothpaste, and luckily had no need for it.

• An extra change of clothes and a pair of pajamas

These are also an essential element for unplanned derailments. However, it can also be good to have for mini-emergencies along your journey. When I needed Jonny to get up so I could use the restroom, in our exhausted stupor, we spilled red wine all over his pants. Luckily he had an extra pair of pants in his carry on - and BONUS: to reward Jonny for the mess we made all over the aisle, the Delta crew brought us a first-class dessert - and offered us more wine. Props to Delta!

• A hairbrush

My hair always feels like a gross, tangled mess after a plane ride, no matter how I style it. A brush is always a wonderful tool to have on hand if you have long hair like me.

• An eye-mask and earplugs

Some planes provide these, some may not. If you plan on trying to sleep at all, these will come in handy if you get stuck next to someone who decides to keep the light on the whole time, or even better, someone with a child who cannot comprehend the painful ear-popping process of travel.

• Chap stick

It can be very dry in those planes, and chapped lips are not the way to arrive. You will thank me later.

• Hand Sanitizer 

Planes endure constant streams of high-volume traffic, day-in and day-out, and there is no way to control the cleanliness of those that  surround you. Avoid the damper sickness will put on your adventure, and bring along a mini-bottle of your own hand sanitizer.

Wear Clothes you can be comfortable in for 12 hours

You are about to spend an extended amount of time in a cramped, seated position, surrounded by about 100 similarly situated people. Being at a high elevation for such an extended period of time will also mean it is  going to get cold, and if you are short like me, you will spend most of the time feeling like you are about to slide off the seat because your feet do not touch the ground. There are several factors working against your comfort, but there are a few ways you can make it better. A key component is comfy clothing that will last you your entire travel time - from your departure from the domestic airport to your arrival at your destination. In particular, sweats are an excellent option - hoodies and thick sweatpants in particular. 

Drink Water

Everyone is always telling you to drink that water, but it especially important for those plane rides. Staying hydrated will make the experience much better. It gets very dry in the pressurized cabin, and this can cause a lot of discomfort. Be aware of the fluids you are taking in. You should consume about 8 ounces every two hours, after drinking plenty in the time leading up to the flight,  and if you choose to have drink to calm you nerves, or a soda to satisfy your cravings, make sure you drink extra water to make up for it. 

Try to Get Some Sleep - But don't Count on It

An eight-hour flight, arriving to your destination in the morning seems like the perfect opportunity to set your body strait on the time zone it is about to enter. If you are someone who can literally sleep anywhere, this is a good boost to fighting that unavoidable jet-lag. If not, you can use a natural sleep aid, such as melatonin, but be sure to have tried it before experimenting on your trip. 

I, personally, am an easy target for jet-lag and an inability to sleep in any uncomfortable situation, no matter what I use to help. So for me, none of these plans for sleep work. I have foolishly even tried to exhaust myself in the time leading up to my departures, only to be exceptionally exhausted upon arrival.  I would have been better off boarding well-rested and arriving only a little tired, fighting the urge to take a nap when I arrive, instead of succumbing to it entirely. 

Finally, Get Excited!

You are about to embark on a new stage in your life, open your eyes to new horizons, and experience new perspectives. Your bags are packed, you are ready to go! 

If you have been on a long flight, learned any rough lessons, or just simply have any advice, share your thoughts - let us know. What would you bring in your carry-on, and how would you prepare otherwise?

Five Fantastic Finds for Foodies!

To be frank, I was probably least excited about the food when coming here. Most would think I am insane for bemoaning the opportunity to try “exotic” Spanish cuisine, and they are probably correct. Those ignorant to the world beyond their city or town assume the food is just like Mexico, and cannot fathom how I could go wrong – I absolutely love Mexican food (or at least that which they call authentic Mexican food in the United States)! Of course, just because they speak the same language, does not at all mean they eat the same food. And Spain cannot handle the spice. Those who are actually capable of locating this country on a map would berate me with the common contention that Spain has one of the best food cultures in the world, and I am missing out. The latter is true. If anyone knows anything about Spain, they know of its varied tapas, its colorful paellas, its intoxicating Sangria, its savory chorizo, and the crazy, crazy eating schedule they consume these flavors in. Indeed, CNN listed Spain as number four in its top ten countries with the best food (following Italy, China, and France), and Huffington Post hailed the cuisine as the reason Spaniards are “winning at life.” This flattering stereotype in mind, I had initially been quite excited to try the food when I first paid a visit. I quickly learned then that my palate was not up to speed for this cultured cuisine, and I lamented the absence of everything I love about eating.

Here’s the rub. While Spain may, in fact have some of the best food in the world, it is food I have, until now, been completely unfamiliar with in every way. Growing up in a small town, in the middle of the country, on a farm, I had become quite fond of the meat-and-potato, comfort style foods. More to the point, my mother hated seafood, and so there was never any in the house. No salmon, no cod, no shrimp, not even a fish stick. I, of my own devise, had a surface level appreciation for certain shellfish, but unfortunately upon my first voyage to Spain, I clashed tragically with its Mediterranean cuisines. I will never recover from the gamba (shrimp) eating lesson my host mother had with me, insisting that sucking juices out of the creature’s head after I had ripped it off its body was the best part. I politely refused. I have taken it upon myself in recent years to understand what people like so much about sea animals, and fortunately, my tastes have improved. However, knowing the degree to which I may be faced with seafood in my new home, I was not exactly thrilled.

Further exasperating my protein dilemma was the famous jamón this country eats as if it were going out of style. This translation of jamón in English is “ham,” but I refuse to allude to some connection between the honey-baked hams I have been raised on and the cured leg of meat Spaniards bathe in salt and then hang from the ceilings for years before consuming. The former is juicy, savory, salty, and tender; the latter is tough, dry, and often tastes like wet dog. And it is not just the jamón, but also what they have unfortunately defined here as bacon. It is not bacon but just thick slices of cured meat, and they are absolutely missing out.

It probably is not fair for me to be so harsh when it comes to this praised, Spanish delicacy, especially considering the combination of my lack of exposure to it and the fact that most of the jamón I have tried is likely not the praised treat but rather a “knock-off” version. Spain is the largest consumer of ham, producing 40 million hams each year. However, of these millions, only 5% of it makes up the celebrated jamón de bellota – jamón produced in the Extremadura region where the pigs subsist, under strict regulations, almost entirely on acorns (bellota) and are distinguished by the black hooves they bear. I therefore doubt that the jamón sitting on dried out café sandwiches is jamón de bellota. This, in combination with the fact that until 2005, such jamón was not allowed into the US, and even now still suffers strict FDA regulations, has jaded and limited my ability to really appreciate the aromatics of the meat. I have been fortunate enough to try the costly, authentic version on this trip, and while I will not be going out and buying my own, 15 pound $1,300 leg anytime soon, I highly recommend you seek out a taste when you come to visit. It is their caviar, and it is a part of embracing Spanish culture.

My four years away from Spain’s unique and celebrated cuisine has allowed me a substantial degree of maturity, and preparation for the flavors that lay ahead. Learning more about the foods along the way has helped me better understand and appreciate the taste. I have also discovered that, perhaps distinct from my extensive time in Toledo, Madrid provides a wealth of variety when it comes to dining options. I had expected it to take several months to track down five restaurants I would highly recommend. I was wrong, so very, very wrong. It has only been three months, and I can easily name 5 places I would not miss if I came back to Madrid for the weekend.  

#1 - Subiendo al Sur

Calle de Ponciano, 5, 28015
Madrid, Community of Madrid

Jonny surprised me with reservations to this lovely gem early on in our adventures, when I was feeling particularly low. It was exactly what I needed. This farm-to-table, South American-esque restaurant is located near Plaza de España on a desolate side-street. I was hesitant at first, noting that the place was completely vacant when we arrived. We learned the hard lesson on our honeymoon not to venture into empty restaurants as novice customers. However, the reviews were good, and it was quite early to be eating dinner on a Friday night anyways– at 9:30p.m.

The restaurant was one of the more beautiful and bigger establishments we have been to so far. The tables were adorned with a bottle of organic wine, a candle, and little paper signs, each with a different welcome saying. Our handsome Cuban server, while unable to speak much English, was very helpful and patient with us as we navigated the menu. When he realized Jonny spoke absolutely no Spanish, he had them translate a menu and reprint it on the spot for us. We asked to have wine, and he offered us the one already on our table. We were a little wary to just simply have what was sitting before us, unsure of how long it had been there or what it might cost, but there did not seem to be a drink menu and he sold it well. We were not disappointed. It was an organic tempranillo from Spain’s wine country - rioja, and it was absolutely delicious. It had a thick, jammy taste inundated with a semi-sweet, red berry flavor.  And of course, let’s not forget that this place serves tapas with its drinks! Held within a crumbly tartlet came an amazing hummus with olive oil, which I quickly inhaled.

If the ambiance, alcohol, and appetizer had not sealed the deal, the main dishes would have overcome every disappointment we could find. On our first trip here, Jonny ordered the “teabag chicken curry” and I, a little less adventurous than him, ordered vegetable lasagna. Both were incredible. My lasagna was everything you would expect, and more. The red sauce was so flavorful, I may have licked the plate clean if I was alone. It carried a strong, creamy tomato essence, with huge slices of carrots appearing throughout. As a side note, carrots in Spain are mysteriously more fantastically delicious than in the United States. Jonny’s chicken curry was served in a wanton-type wrapping (shaped like tea bags) with a side salad of vibrant and flavorful vegetables, including radishes, carrots, and olives. The curry flavor was not particularly strong, but it was there. It was so good I, as usual, regretted not simply ordering the same thing. However, my lasagna made me happy enough.

After such a fantastic meal and such excellent service, we could not pass up the chance to try a dessert. And so we opted for what they called toasted coconut milk with honey drizzle. It turned about to be a delicious custard we were sad to see go, and as we asked for the cuenta, we washed it all down with our complimentary digestif – a shot of rum. Stuffed and buzzed, we stumbled out of Subiendo forgetting the worries of the past few weeks and promising ourselves we would return – which we did. 

"Tea-bag" Chicken Curry, Vegetable Lasagna - Subiendo al Sur

Subiendo al Sur tops my list for several reasons. Not only is the atmosphere ripe for relaxation and romance, with paintings by local artists lining the walls and calming music filling the candle-lit air, but the service is absolutely wonderful. One thing that is hard to come by in many restaurants here is a server that will take the time to get to know you, focus on presentation, and be nice enough to print a menu in English, most likely because unlike in the United States, these servers are not relying on tips to survive. The first time we paid a visit, our server passed the time introducing himself and talking in detail about the foods. The second time, when we passed on dessert, they brought us one anyways, on the house. Moreover, the prices are more than fair, though this seems common in this city. Our meals cost approximately €10.00 each, and our dessert a little less than that. Notably, our wine was a little pricey - about €15.00. However, when you consider all of the “free-bee” add-ons such as the tapas and after-dinner shots, it is a true bargain. It is impossible to recommend a specific dish because the menu is constantly rotating (hence, farm-to-table), but everything we have tried so far has been executed with a sense of pride, and it is all delicious. The lomo saltado (Peruvian Style), the Chicken Curry, and the Vegetable Lasagna are all guaranteed trips to heaven. If you have the money, and the room in your stomach, try them all as they become available. I worry, with how few people seem to go, at least when we are there, that this place will not endure, and that would be a true tragedy.

#2 - Momo

Calle de la libertad, 8
28004, Madrid (Chueca)

If Jonny was writing this post, I am fairly confident Momo’s would be his number one, instead of its humble place on my ranking at number two. And if Subiendo had not yet been found, it would be number one for me as well. Momo’s is located in the Chueca area, on a narrow street, hidden behind unassuming windows covered by its paper menu. There is little room to wait at the entrance, and if you come a little later in the lunch period, you are bound to do some cramped standing around. There is a small bar at the door with three stools, and we snagged a seat and two “café con leche” coffees quickly after finding out it would be a thirty minute wait. The restaurant is very similar to its typical Spanish competitors: a long, narrow room, walls in need of washing, and tables lining both sides, crammed with people. Though plain, but for an abstract painting on the far wall and mirrors down the isle, the place carried an artsy vibe. We were excited to try any of the beautifully presented dishes that emerged from behind the kitchen door, and we were thrilled to find out it was all worth the wait.

Jonny and I both opted for the €11.50 menu del día – a three course meal with a drink of choice (My Spanish friends have explained to me, that while the restaurant calls them “del días,” the customers call them the “menú“ and the menu is “la carta” – don’t get it twisted!). For Jonny’s menú, he chose a creamed tomato soup to start, followed by salmon ceviche dish. The tomato soup is served cold, and had a surprisingly strong, but not very bitter, tomato flavor. It was very fresh with a wonderfully smooth texture, topped with a mild crumbled cheese that complemented the soup’s flavors well. The salmon ceviche was accompanied with mangos, mandarins, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro. It was exactly as ceviche should be - light, fresh, and balanced with a great citrus flavor. The mango could have been more ripe, but it worked well in conjunction with the other ingredients. 

I chose the vegetable vermicelli as my starter, pork loin for my main dish. As usual in Spain, the pork was a little overdone for my taste and was therefore a bit dry, but the sauce, savory and a little acidic, was incredible and I could forgive this minor fault. The vermicelli was absolutely delicious, with strong briny flavors and vegetables embedded in a tangle of translucent noodles. 

For our third course – the dessert, we ordered a pineapple rum smoothie. The only bad thing we could say about this was that we wanted more! It meant little to our minds and mouths that our stomach was starting to cry for mercy. For less than €12 euros each, we left gorged, content, ready for a good long Spanish siesta. If we convince Jonny’s parents to pay us a visit, we will be sure to drag them here.

Momo may look like the many hole-in-the wall restaurants you pass to get there, but it is one of my top five for a few reasons. First, we were enticed by the reasonable prices that accompanied the raves online. There are, in general, even cheaper Menú options in the area, but this is the lowest-priced one we have tried, and we just don’t know how they manage it. No hidden taxes, no need to tip. Just €11.50 and you are given a feast fit for a jolly, fat king. Additionally, the service, while understandably hurried considering the sea of diners knocking down the doors, was nice and attentive to our needs. They worked quickly to rearrange tables as they left, provide the food efficiently, and make room for incoming guests, all with a calm and service-oriented demeanor. The look of the place is very unassuming, and if we did not come here on purpose, we may have passed it up. That would have been a loss for us.

#3 - Cornucopia 

Calle Navas de Tolosa, 9
28013, Madrid

When I think about our time at Cornucopia, a more upscale restaurant located near Plaza de Ópera, I worry that the nostalgia of the evening may have clouded my vision and the food was not as thrilling as I now recall. It was, after all, our one year anniversary, and after a day of massages and exploration throughout the city, I was a giddy, relaxed fool, ready to fall in love with anything that showed an effort. While I may have been vulnerable, even on clear-minded reflection, Cornucopia was one of the best restaurants I have visited in my time here so far.

As I noted, it was our one year anniversary, and to our dismay, Sunday in Madrid slightly limits your options for where to eat. We assumed we would hop into Subiendo al Sur, and realized too late that it was not open on Sundays. Neither was Botín, the (arguably) oldest restaurant in the city. So we did some research and settled for this eatery after perusing their menú and making reservations. We told them it was our anniversary, and they were kind enough to make us feel special and cared for, though it seems we were not that unique in this regard. Every table near us seemed well taken care of and contentedly animated. Similar to Subiendo al Sur, the walls here were covered in local artists’ paintings. The tables were set with gourdes, reminding us where we were – Cornucopia! They lit a candle at our table, and after supplying us with an iced bottle of cava (sparkling wine native to Spain), we were on our way to a beautiful, blurry evening.

We opted for the winter menú, which came to around €22.00 each, this time not including any beverage or dessert. This made it a little pricey, and for budget-conscious stipend-dependent individuals as ourselves, this is what knocked its ranking down to number three. Knowing the quality of food you can find at other places for half this costs, made it hard to fall head over heels. However, if price is no factor whatsoever, this place is a must. For that €22.00, we received an appetizer and a main dish. I ordered wild mushroom croquetas to start, and a deconstructed hamburger as my main dish. Jonny ordered grilled asparagus and a tuna steak.

If you love mushrooms, you will enjoy the croquetas. This is the first time I had them in a variant other than jamón, and the earthy flavor dominated every bite. They came served on a bed of fresh, bitter greens, which created a perfect balance to this heavy treat. Jonny’s asparagus came topped with a bruleed slice of Manchego and a balsamic reduction drizzled on top. As usual, I envied Jonny’s consistently more apt food selections. It was a pleasant, mouthwatering treat, only to be out-shined by the main dish that followed.

I opted for the deconstructed hamburger, consisting of a perfectly cooked, hearty beef patty atop a wheat cracker, with a side garnish of lettuce, red onion, tomatoes, and ample ketchup (I think mostly for the presentation), and a serving of cheesy potatoes gratin. The ketchup was a little much, but the dish was otherwise perfect. Jonny, of course, continued to out-do me, indulging on the most delicious looking tuna I had ever seen. It was a massive tuna stake, cooked rare with a ruby red center, carried a wonderful seared-grill flavor, with a subtle hint of ginger and sesame oil. The acidic blood-orange and grapefruit slices complemented the ginger flavor well and the astringency helped to cleanse the palate so as to fully appreciate each bite of the fatty tuna. The couscous side was a little dry, but overall acceptable, and the currants throughout it added an exciting pop of flavor.

We rounded off our romantic evening with an incredible dessert – banana panna cotta sprinkled with dark chocolate chips and drizzled with a coffee reduction. The panna cotta was perfectly creamy with a slightly spongy texture, and a hint of banana essence throughout. The chocolate and coffee added a bitterness to balance out the sweetness, sending us off into a sugary bliss. It is hard to write without getting up right now, and paying a visit to Cornucopia all over again.

#4 Malaspina

Calle de Cádiz, 9 

28012 Madrid

Malaspina appears on many tourist sites, and for good reason. Jonny and I came here after reading the reviews on Trip Advisor to find it completely packed. The weather was nice enough, so we took one of the few tables they had outside its doors, under the heaters. The bar is located on a busy side street, just off of Puerta del Sol, surrounded by an array of other bars, though all less inhabited. We worried hungrily as we took our seats, whether we would be able to eat anytime soon, given the wall of people clamoring about the bar inside. No worries, a server greeted us almost instantly, and followed our (cheap) wine orders with a serving of complimentary tapas – the best, apart from Subiendo’s, I have had yet. It was slices of chorizo and fried, cubed potatoes swimming in the savory juices. After we placed our order – ½ roasted chicken and, of course, croquetas – he brought us a basket of bread, and we dined merrily on our tapas until our lunch arrived.

It seems to be a consistent risk in Spain that when you order chicken or pork, it is likely going to be dry, and ultimately flavorless. Malaspina, however, has figured it out. Our chicken came out beautifully, full of juicy, briny flavor, complemented with the typical unsalted fries that seem to find their way on a majority of Spanish dishes. We savored every morsel of the bird that had been cooked to perfection. Jonny did not care as much for the croquetas, but I found them to be distinctly delicious. The filling was sprinkled with jamón, as usual, but the creamy cheese carried with it a hint of sweetness that seemed to lighten up the inherently heavy flavor the nuggets tend to develop.

Full to the brim, we asked for the cuenta, and it came with a digestif. This time it was some form of green, anise liqueur, and because of Jonny’s disdain for the stuff, I got both! I discovered then that the city and its rather aggressive residents are insanely more tolerable when enduring them on a buzz, and I wondered if Anthony Bourdain would agree.

I have only good things to say about Malaspina. The service was prompt and friendly, the food was perfection, and best of all, we left full of wine, a shot of liqueur, roast chicken, croquetas, bread, chorizo and fried potatoes for a grand total of about €11.00! It was delicious, it was perfect, and it made for an enjoyable afternoon, even after we departed.

#5 - Lateral

Calle Arturo Soria
Centro Comercial Arturo Soria Plaza
28043, Madrid

Unlike the last four restaurants mentioned, Lateral is a chain, with 7 establishments dispersed throughout the city. Nothing wrong with that – they are highly successful at what they do, so why not spread the love. The reviews online were somewhat mixed, but the place had been recommended to us by various locals, so we decided to try it. We arrived at around 10:00 in the evening – prime dinner time – and it was packed and chaotic. We put our name on a list and sat outside to people-watch while we waited. After a short wait, we were ushered inside by a friendly host to a table right up against server POS station. Not ideal, I felt the need to shift out of the way as they reached for silverware and typed in orders. However, it wasn't terrible since that meant there was always someone around to take our order. If that was not the case, we may have needed to figure out how to use the call button on the table to order our rounds of food.

The theme of this restaurant was different – the closest to an all-out tapas bar we had encountered. It was lively and loud with a mix of patrons, and its bar was an inspiring display, with the glasses stacked in green and blue back-lit shelving to the high ceiling.

We started our food journey with a “jarra” of Sangria. Every time we order a jarra, no matter where we are, the server pauses to clarify that we know what we are talking about, gesturing a massive size with his hands. And every time I want to say yes, we are the giant Americans, indulging on the cheap alcoholic drinks you have in this country, and yes, we want the big pitcher of your summery wine drink, in January. They never argue for too long, though they always leave a little concerned. In most places, any drink, particularly such a large drink, will be served with tapas – little side snacks ranging in their degree of exquisiteness from a cold piece of tortilla española on a slice of bread, to a flaky, warm empanadilla drizzled with a balsamic glaze. Here, given the theme of the place, there were no free handouts, no free tapas. And so, drink in hand, we chose our first treats.

If you had not yet noticed, I have developed a love affair with croquetas, and so, bypassing the many seafood-based dishes, I went for the basic, run-of-the-mill, cheese-filled, fried pieces of delight. If I was not enamored before, these ones sealed the deal. They were also probably the first time I had ones that were made in house from scratch, not just thrown into a deep-fryer.

Jonny went for his favorite sea creature, the scallop, lightly seared in oil and served over a spread of potato purée. They were slightly smaller than expected, but fair for the price. They had a fantastically buttery flavor, and the purée had an exceptionally smooth texture. He was happy, but needed more to eat.

To finish our evening on a high note, we decided to try the "Brie fundido con jamón Iberico." It was in this moment I became a convert. The Brie was addictingly salty and pungent with a smooth, semi-chewy texture. It carried the extra chewy, higher quality jamón's salty, umami flavor well, all atop delicious Spanish bread. In all,it was a great night, a little expensive, but worth every euro-cent.

In sum, we have had some fantastic meals at several establishments. It is hard to expand our horizons having found such great options already. However, we are also excited to see what the over 7,000 options in this large city have to offer.

Let us know what your favorite restaurants are, and why. We would love to hear some great options to make the most of our remaining months here!